Dog at rock climbing venue

What to do at the top of a sport climb.


Under no circumstances should the advice on these pages be used without supervision from a suitably experienced person.

sport climbingAt the top of many sports climbs there is a krab or something simular you can thread the rope into. A issue sometimes arises when there is nothing to clip the rope into, when this happens you will have to rethread the climbing rope through the bolt at the top.

There are normally two bolts at the top of a climb with something like a chain linking the bolts. In the example here there are a couple of mallions linking the bolts.

Equipment needed.

All you will need for this is a extra quick draw and a krab. If you ever find your self at the top of a climb with no spare gear you can always use a quick draws from lower down the route (although this does mean climbing back up again).

Clip the rope

It is important that your belayer keeps you 'on belay' during this process. Having your belayer do this acts as a extra back up.

The first step is easy, just clip a quick draw to the top bolt and clip the rope into the quick draw.



Taking the weight off the rope

clipping a sport climbing

Next use the spare quick draw a clip your harness loop to the bolts at the top of the route. Make sure you clip the harness and not the rope to the bolts as you will be untieing the rope later.


Making a loop

sport climbing

As your weight is now on the bolts your belayer will be able to give you some slack. Using this slack make a loop of rope and pass this through the central part of the chain. In this photo the central part is the middle mallion.


Tieing a knot

sport climbing tips

Tie a double figure of eight in this loop of rope.


sport climbing advice

Now use the spare krab and clip this into your harness. You must clip into the harness and not the loop of the original knot


sport climbing

Check everything and check it all again. If you have made any mistakes you could end up falling. Now untie the original knot on the rope (this is the main knot you used to attach the rope to the harness when climbing the route).

Get your belayer to take the rope tight and then check everything again. If you are happy unclip the two quick draws from the top and get lowered down to the ground retrieving the quick draws on the way.



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