Stone farm rocks guide
Stonefarm Rocks is a sandstone outcrop near Forest Row that overlooks Weirwood resevoir. Stonefarm is a good venue for easy bouldering with the odd hard problem here and there. The height is the rocks here is lower than many off the other sandstone outcrops although ropes are defiently need to climb the route here. The sandstone is softer here so the rock tends to be on the sandy side. Please make sure you clean all the sand off your shoes before you climb to help reduce the damage to the rocks. Some of the boulder problems are actually small routes or highball boulder problems but you don't have to climb to the top.
There are many good traverse lines at Stone farm rocks along the base of the crag.
There is a small amount of car parking on a the which is only one minute from the crag.
The pictures are from Right to Left as this is how the crag is approached
The bouldering grades are in Font grades but remember that British and Font bouldering grades are similar up to 6a.
- Black lines = 6b or above
- Red lines = 6a
- Orange lines = 5c
- Yellow lines = 5b
- Green lines = 5a or below
Bouldering can be dangerous and ropes may be required for some of the problems! I fully endorse the British Mountaineering Council's participation statement.....
"The BMC recognises that climbing and mountaineering are activities with a danger of personal injury or death. Participants in these activities should be aware of and accept these risks and be responsible for their own actions."
Inaccessible Boulder South Face
- Climb up the easy decent route. You will have to climb down again. 4b
- Sitting start to the hard arete. Bolt holds are in. 7a+
Ashdown Wall Area
- Make your own way up the slab. 2a
- Climb the centre of the slab. 2a
- Far right side of the slab - try it with no hands.1a
- Climb up the easy slab. 3a
- Climb the right side of the slab on good holds. 3a
- Hard moves up the wall. 5a
- Climb the centre of the front face. 4b
- Traverse in from the right or climb direct. 2c
- Strenuously climb from right to left. 6a
Hippo
- Backhander - a mantle shelf. 6a
- Hairy Scary - Hard finish. 5a
- Grooving Away - Hard in the grade. 3b
- Font Blue - A good problem. 5b
- Step up. 2a
- Bin the Trainers. 2b
- Jump Start. 5b
- Pleasure Dome. 1a
- Knobbly Knee. 5a
- Easy climbing on the left side of the boulder 4b
- Straight up the middle of the undercut boulder 6a
- Climb the right side of the boulder 6a
Back side of the Pinnacle
- Absent Friends. 6a
- Authurs Problems. 6b
- King Authur. 6a
Praying Mantals Area
- Pinnacle Buttress. 5b
- Praying Mantles. 5b
- Easy Crack - the only way down if you don't solo to the top. 2a
Slab Direct Area
- The left hand side of the slab. 4b
- Climb the middle of the slab. 4a
- The right hand side of the slab. 4a
- A good rising traverse line from right to left. 4a
Cat Wall Area
- Cat Wall. The easiest 6a on sandstone! 5c
- Climb the right side of the buttress. 5b
- Pine Buttress. Hard moves with poor foot holds. 5c
Footie Area
- More of a solo than a boulder problem. 1b
- The short wall underneath the ramp line. 6a
- Footie 5c+
- Stonefarm Chimney4b
- The left hand side of the buttress. 6b
- Cat Wall. The easiest 6a on sandstone! 5c
Pyramid Walls Area
- 4c
- 4c
- 5c
- 5b
- 5b
- 5b
