How to climb Tempation at Bowles rocks
Tempation is a classic 6b at Bowles rocks and a climb that is easy for the grade (once you know how). There are a couple of different ways to climb this route depending on your height and flexabilty. Once you have learnt the technique you will be able to climb this route with relative ease. Setting up the bottom rope on this climb will require a long static rope and a couple of screw gate krabs. Do not use the old rusty aid bolts to set up with - They will not hold you! You will also want to protect your rigging rope - I have seen a rope cut to shreds on this route.
Rock can change over time, any information on these pages may be out of date if part of the rock has broken off after I have climbed the route. I am just pointing out the way that I climbed the route on that day. It is also impossible to say that any given piece of protection is safe. It may have hold when I fell on it, this does not mean it would hold me again! Any piece that I placed will have looked good to me but there is no guarantee that it would hold a fall. You will have to make these judgements yourself. I will not take any responsibility for people climbing these routes and I fully endorse the British Mountaineering Council's participation statement.....
"The BMC recognises that climbing and mountaineering are activities with a danger of personal injury or death. Participants in these activities should be aware of and accept these risks and be responsible for their own actions."
The crux of the route
This is the start of the crux, reaching this point is very easy and you get a big rest and chalk up before you try the hard moves.
Your right hand will have found a massive jug which is used as a side pull and later as an undercut. Using the side pull and the break work your feet upwards until you have enough reach to gain the finger pocket. The best way to do this is using a back step as shown in the picture as this will provide you with more reach and allow you to perform the rock over.
Using the thumb in the pocket makes to rock over easier but puts you out of balance when reaching for the next hold. If you use a finger in the pocket the rock over is very hard but it does allow you to place your left foot on the rock when reaching for the next hold.
The climber in this photo has used his finger in the pocket and moved the left foot onto a foothold. This has made the reach to the next hold more stable. Hold for the right hand is good and there is a place you can hold onto with the left hand too.
Once the hold has been matched move your feet up and make a long, powerfull (dyno) to the break. The break is massive so if you truly go for it you will be able to hold on.
Match the break and take a rest. Chalk up and prepare your self the the last final move.
From the break reach up to the top of the flake with the left hand. This is another good handhold but its a long reach so make sure you commit the the move. This hold can take a while to dry after the rain so make sure its dry before climbing the route.
Power to the top and make an easy mantle to finish. There is a good handhold over the top that makes the final move very easy. Have a look for it when you are setting the ropes.
